Penneshaw, KI

Hi everyone

We are busily preparing the boat for an early morning departure! We moved around to Christmas Cove at Penneshaw yesterday to do some last minute jobs and stock up on fresh food. I love Penneshaw - its such a pretty town (despite the big ferry terminal smack bang in the middle of the bay!), good facilities, and its actually got a bit of hustle and bustle about it at this time of year.

Anyway, back to the matter at hand - our imminent departure. We are as ready as we're ever going to be, and although the winds are not in the perfect direction, the weather is about as good as we can expect at this time of year - low swell is forecast for the next 4 days, winds light to moderate, and the sun will be shining.

Since we left Adelaide in November we have logged a grand total of 310 nautical miles, which is an underwhelming average of about 6 nautical miles per day - but please keep in mind that 3 weeks of it was virtually stationary in American River! Coincidentally, or perhaps spookily, it is also 310 nautical miles to Port Fairy, which is our preferred first landfall in Victoria. At our current rate of 6 miles per day this would take us... oh, 50 DAYS or so! hehe

Don't worry, it will be more like 3 or 4 days. The plan is to leave at dawn tomorrow morning on the rising tide. New Years Eve will be on the sea, which will be very unique - but no drinking for us! Our intention is to arrive in Port Fairy in Victoria sometime on Tuesday, although we have a number of back-up options such as Portland and even Robe or Cape Jaffa.

Carol at VMR American River has been so helpful - she has called ahead to the network of volunteer marine radio operators along the coast to let them know we're coming, and has also sent us a heap of information about radio frequencies and coverage. Its possible there will be a few "black spots" along the way, but we have all the emergency equipment to get help if we need it - so we will be fine.

We are both feeling confident and excited about finally going to sea. Kitty is not impressed however - we put her harness back on her again last night so she could get used to it and she has spent every minute since giving us evil looks.

So here we go - wish us luck! We are as ready as we'll ever be - there's no more putting it off.
After all, they say that if you want to be a sailor, you have to go to sea!

Happy New Year!
Love, Caitlin and Michael

A few pictures from this morning...

Entrance to Christmas Cove

Last minute maintenance and checks...

View from the top...

Merry Christmas x2

Oh, and a Merry Christmas to our Family in Victoria, especially new member Chantilly Lace, and the rest of the farm!

xxx

Merry Christmas from the crew of Bass Voyager

Hello everybody, well we're still in American River KI waiting for the weather. We really didn't expect to be here for Christmas but thats the way things go when you make plans that are largely reliant on the weather. Having said that, apart form the lack of family and friends, we couldn't really ask for a better anchorage to be in. On Wednesday we went for a dive at Kangaroo Head, about one hours sail from AR to look for Crayfish. I found heaps of Crayfish - all very small and very undersized. Great dive none the less with heaps of spider crabs, octopus, cuttlefish and grouper. 

The weather is not looking great for our passage East at this stage with a potential gap opening up late next week - fingers crossed. In the mean time we will have to endure this place of over-friendly locals, fish on tap and beatiful wildlife.

Merry Christmas to all our family at my sister's house tonight for Christmas celebrations. I hope you have a great night.

Merry Christmas to all our family having breakfast at my other sister's place tomorrow morning.

Merry Christmas to all!

Love Michael, Caitlin and Kitty 

xxx

The crew of Bass Voyager.

 A Bass Voyager Christmas.

American River... still

Today is two weeks since we left the mainland, and we are still in American River, waiting for fair winds. A month ago, if I'd been told we would still be in SA for Christmas, I wouldn't have believed it. Its very frustrating, but I'm trying focus on the positives (like the beautiful surroundings, good company, fresh food - gee, its not too bad, eh?) and trying to fight the feeling like we're on some kind of schedule - which is crazy. This is what sailing is all about - being at the mercy of the weather - with all the joys and frustrations that brings.

Here's what we are facing - and have been for the last two weeks... the arrows show the wind direction (i.e pointing up = southerly, pointing left = easterly). As you can see, they are consistently coming from the very direction we need to go - south-east!

A yacht called Bluefin left here on Saturday bound for Port Albert in Victoria - they were determined to get home by Christmas and were happy to motor into headwinds the whole way to get there. Not something we are interested in doing - a bit of motoring is OK, but we are sailors, not powerboaters. An alternative would be to leave on an easterly wind and head south deep into the (gulp) Southern Ocean until the wind (hopefully) swings south and we can head east. The other alternative is to just sit here and wait and hope that Santa sends us winds with north or west in them.

View of Strawbridge Point from our mooring in American River

Strawbridge Point

Its a pretty great spot to be stuck really. Yesterday we took BV out into the bay and anchored for a few hours and caught a beautiful whiting and some big garfish which Michael filleted and I made into a pretty amazing (if I do say so myself!) panko-crumbed dinner. Oh - and Isabella - I said Id catch you a flathead - well, whatever my little sis wants, my little sis gets! Unfortunately he was just a little too small to keep - see photo below. ;o)

Oh, and we've realised something about Kitty - she hates the engine - she has taken to climbing on deck when the conditions are calm to get away from the engine noise! She's obviously a sailor, not a powerboater too!

Just chillin'

So we are trying to fill our spare time with little excursions - tomorrow we are going to go diving nearby and hopefully catch a crayfish for Christmas. We also spent three days last week exploring the island by car, which was great. Here are a few photos from the trip.

We had booked in to the cheapest accommodation we could find down at the Flinders Chase National Park which was a tiny cottage for $65 per night. When we got there they had double-booked us so upgraded us to the comparatively palatial May's Cottage. This place was just gorgeous - simple and rustic, but had everything you could possibly want - including a crab pot - perfect for the marron we bought en route. I definitely recommend it as inexpensive accomodation in that part of the island. Wish we could have stayed a few more days. As you can see from the photos, the locals were very cute.

May's Cottage - Flinders Chase NP

Michael is cute too...

Oh, and please excuse the "food-porn" but here is our amazing candlelit dinner of marron and salad with fried Kangaroo Island sheep-milk haloumi. And a good bottle of SA Riesling. Life's pretty good.

The aptly named Remarkable Rocks

Beautiful Cape de Couedic

The lighthouse at Cape Willoughby on the Eastern coast. I was a bit nervous about going here because it is where we will be sailing past when we (finally!) get away, and I was worried the ocean swell would scare the bejeezus out of me, but it was actually pretty benign. Just shows you have to pick your weather.

Also, we went to an amazing winery which had only just opened its new cellar door 3 weeks earlier - Dudley Wines, 15 mins out of Penneshaw. I am not exaggerating when I say that their new digs have one of the best views on the island - an amazing, grand vista taking in the mainland across Backstairs Passage. The photo doesn't do it justice, of course. Oh, and they had "bucket o' prawns" on the menu and the wine was good too! Make sure you go if you have a chance. Imogen - potential wedding venue!!!! ;o)

OK.
Well, Merry Christmas everyone! We send you lots of love and hope you have a very happy and relaxing day.

Stay in touch!
Love
Caitlin and Michael
xxxx

American River

Hi everyone
After a week and a bit at Wirrina catching up with family and doing a few jobs on the boat we sailed back to American River to wait for the best possible weather to strike out East. The trip over was a bit rolly, but memorable because of our mid-strait rendevous with Michael's Opa and Dad who were catching snapper for Christmas. That was Tuesday, and although the weather is improving towards the end of this week, the winds are forecast to be coming from exactly the direction that we want to go - South-East! Not much good for a sail boat. So, while we wait and cross our fingers and hope for the forecast to change and the winds to swing Northerly or Westerly (or at least Southerly!), we've decided to hire a car for a few days and see a bit more of the island. We'll keep you posted on our progress, or lack thereof!
Love
Caitlin and Michael

A couple of days before leaving Wirrina Cove - thanks for the photo John!

Kingscote - Snug Cove - Althorpe Island

We are back at Wirrina Cove after completing our round trip along the north coast of KI, across to Althorpe Island and then 70 nautical miles back to the mainland. Its been a great couple of weeks which challenged us (which we wanted) but also gave us many special moments and opportunities to relax and soak up the beauty of some more remote areas.

It has been a fortnight of "firsts" - first night sail, longest passage (to date), biggest seas, new speed record (8.2kts with no current assistance!), first scuba dive from our own boat, first crayfish caught from our own boat, first flathead caught from our own boat ;o) ... and on it goes. Boat and crew performed admirably, and even Kitty did well - well, when the boat wasn't moving... It was a very successful shakedown, and just what we needed to put us through our paces.

When we last left you we were enjoying the protected anchorage at American River. On 17 November we left AR for an easy sail around to Kingscote where we moored just north of it's three jetties. Being in a town for the first time since leaving Adelaide was a great opportunity to stock up on fresh fruit and veg, top up the outboard fuel, and do our laundry. On the second night the wind swung round to the South as a thunderstorm passed over the island and we had a very rolly night keeping an anchor watch and a close eye on the wind instruments which recorded nearly 30kts - the most we've had at anchor (so far!). Anchor didnt budge, although we were pretty tired by the morning.

Kingscote locals...

 

After the storm we decided to high-tail it out of the the big smoke to Emu Bay on the North Coast, but the conditions were so good we pushed on to Western River Cove (46nm, sailing 6-7kts most of the way - up to 8.2!) The big westerly swell unfortunately made WRC pretty rolly, so the next morning we decided to motor the 7nm through 2m seas to Snug Cove where we expected to have more protection. Snug Cove was a great improvement, but we decided to set a kedge anchor to keep our bow pointed into the swell until conditions settled in a day or two.

The next 5 days we spent soaking up the rugged beauty, isolation and unbelievable wildlife of this pristine place. We snorkelled, went for walks, read, did crosswords, listened to music, baked bread, fished, teased Kitty, and met the locals which included a resident ocean gull who really ruled the roost, hawks, Blue Groper fish and kangaroos. The water at Snug Cove (infact, all over KI) was crystal clear and alive with life. The sand was very fine and white, which gave the water that almost unreal turquoise hue that you'd expect in a tropical paradise.

Wednesday 23 November was our 9 year wedding anniversary. Michael caught four freshwater marron in the creek that runs into the cove - they aren't native, so must have been escapees from the local aquaculture pens?? Regardless, they were so delicious! We cracked open a bottle of French champagne that Imogen gave us as a farewell gift, and felt pretty darned blessed. We wonder where we will be for our 10 year anniversary. Michael, ever the realist, thinks Darwin. I, being much more ambitious think Thailand, or maybe the Phillipines! As usually happens with us, the answer will probably be somewhere in between the two.

Fishing near the entrance to Snug Cove

Local gull scoping us out. He visited us every day.

Checking emails on the hill above the cove. 

Views from above Snug Cove

Bass Voyager snuggled in Snug Cove

 Freshwater Crayfish

 Kitty planning her escape

49cm flathead!



Finally the weather looked perfect to cross over to Althorpe Island. AI is a favourite diving spot for us from our days with the Flinders Uni Dive Club and we were really keen to revisit fond memories. Althorpe's has a very protected bay with dramatic cliffs standing over the anchorage. It has this eerie atmosphere with three marked graves a testiment to the unforgiving South Australian coastline. We did an amazing dive in the bay, our first in quite a while, and it was perfect - no surge, no current, clear water, big Blue Gropers, an aquarium of fish, and a sealion which Michael missed because he had his head in a small cave snaring a beautiful crayfish!

On Saturday we decided the time was right to make our first overnight passage, back to the mainland. We left around 5pm for the 70 nautical mile voyage and slammed straight into well over 2 metre seas leaving Althorpe Island. We forged ahead though, banking on our interpretation of the weather charts and forecast that pointed to things improving, and thankfully by the time night fell the seas moderated. We took 2 hour shifts, alternating napping and watching the helm and radar. I had packed a bag with soup and coffee in thermos', chocolate, lollies, apples and rice crackers, and it was a life saver! This "snack-pack" will no doubt become a regular part of our overnight passages. We made great time, and by the time we arrived at Wirrina we were motoring in glassy seas with no wind. We arrived about an hour before dawn, so slowed right down to ensure we had some light to enter the marina.

So here we are! Back at Wirrina with a short list of jobs to do before we head off again. The plan is to be here until early next week, catch up with family, reprovision with fresh food (and more beer!) and then head over to Penneshaw or American River to wait for the right weather to strike out East.

Thanks for enduring such a long post!!!

American River

We had a gorgeous sail across Backstairs Passage yesterday, finally making the break from the mainland!

BV sailed beautifully - we had pretty gentle conditions until midday when the wind swung round SE and up to 25kts so we tried out our staysail for the first time. We had set up this baby sail in preparation for the stonger winds - something we'll do regulalry from here on in. The sail is in practically new condition and made our arrival in American River soooo much more comfortable. It makes me feel much more confident to sail in stronger winds - less heeling, but more control and similar speeds. We love our stays'l so much we are already talking about putting her on a roller furler all of her own so we dont need to go on deck to hoist.

Oh, and Kitty did amazingly well in the pleasant conditions! No seasickness, in fact she spent the whole day with us in the cockpit alternating between catnaps and gazing out the window at the waves wooshing past. Very promising - we'll make a boat-cat of her yet.... now if I could only become a boat-human.... 

Anyway, we've spent the last day and a half at AR enjoying the anchorage which is calm and protected, even in the high winds and strong river current.

Today we explored Pelican Lagoon, scared the pelicans, and bought fresh oysters, freshwater crayfish and mussels from the store in town. A beach walk followed by a BBQ sums up our very difficult and challenging mid-week afternoon! ;o)

Tomorrow the weather is looking lovely so we will make the short 14 nautical mile hop around to Kingscote where I hope to do our laundry, buy some fresh veggies and celebrate our 1 week anniversary of being on the water! After that we'll wait for good weather and then head West to visit some of the gorgeous and isolated bays that pepper the north coast of KI. Not sure what the internet and phone reception will be like down there, so dont worry if we dont check in next week - I will get in touch as soon as we're able!

A few photos from AR:

As you can see, Kitty had a very stressful passage from Wirrina to KI...
M is not impressed that she has secondered his Captain's chair...

Tough conditons... I actually fell asleep on deck. No, not in the cockpit - on deck!

Kitty scoffs at Neptune's wrath....

First night in American River. Not a great picture (sorry Mikey) but worthy of a mention because he caught 20 - yes 20! - tommie ruffs and 7 garfish in the space of just an hour or two.

Pelican lagoon. No idea why they call it that......

Visitors....

Adelaide Matters

For those that haven't come across it yet...
It must have been a slow news week, but then again, it is Adelaide!! ;o)

Adelaide Matters, November 2011, p 45

Outer Harbour - Wirrina Cove

I saw John Cleese on TV last week and he quoted (Woody Allen, I think) "if you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans" - Ha! ...

On Thursday 10 November at 06:50 we cast off our lines and motored out of the Royal SA Yacht Squadron. After two years of planning, 6 months of living and working on the boat, and just under 6 weeks of full time prep work, we finally did it.

Ah, the stories I could tell you about our first day. . . I couldn't have made it up.

First - the amazing sailing we had till early afternoon - at 6 - 7 knots on a close reach in 15 knot winds, we were flying. It was a bit rough, but we were making the best times we've ever done and the seasickness tablets were working a treat! Then there was the unforcast increase in wind around 1pm, and the accompanying 2 metre swell. . .

"Hang on, I thought the forecast said winds decreasing in the arvo???!"

Then there was the freak 3 metre wave from against the direction of the swell which crashed through the cabin and drenched me and all our gear . . . Not to mention the seasickness: Caitlin x3, Kitty x2, Michael x0 (bastard!) Oh, and the damaged fuel line that meant we got diesel through all our gear in the port cockpit locker. Oh, did I mention the newly discovered deck leak that "dampened" our bedroom? Um, what else? Oh yeah - and one of the windscreen wipers broke.


Well, we wanted to do a "shakedown" trip, and we sure got all shook up!


There was a moment in the middle of the worst of it when I looked over at the instruments and realised that we had three hours to go before we would be back on land. And at that point there was nothing to do but harden up and just deal with it. After all, there was nothing to be done about it, no magic teleporter to transport me miraculously back to shore, or a speed boat to shorten the trip. The boat can only go as fast as she can go, and the crew cant do much other than grin, bear and make the most of it!

Do you want to hear the craziest thing though? We are having a great time. Once we pulled in to Wirrina Cove - cold, wet, ill and exhausted - it hit me. We are actually out here and we did it - we left the dock!! Many people never do.


And Bass Voyager did beautifully. We had no idea she could sail so fast, especially fully loaded in tough conditions. We felt very safe, as she seemed to "hug" the water with all the extra weight, and kept a very straight course despite the swell and being close to the wind. The autopilot did a great job too.

Not for a moment did we consider letting our challenging first day put us off the "grand plan" - well maybe for a moment ;o). Actually, its made us feel more confident that we can tackle tough conditions, and we have a boat that will keep us safe. Plus its beautiful here - the cliffs along the fleurieu peninsula are so rugged and dramatic - it makes the pain worthwhile. Ive heard women say the same about childbirth - that you want to die during the ordeal, but once its done you start thinking about the next one... perhaps there is an analogy there.

So we decided to hang here at the Wirrina Marina and get ourselves and BV back in order. Its $50 a night (ouch!), but only $110 for the week, so we decided to make the most of it and have been in no hurry to leave.

Friday we spent the day cleaning our gear (yuck, what a mess. I have never used so much degreaser in my life) and chasing the deck leaks. The leaks were thankfully minor, and easily fixed with some scraping, silicon and repainting. One day we'll need to weld them, but for now they are fine. The water that got in to the lockers was the result of a below-the-waterline hull fitting which, although its stop-cock was switched to the off position, was seized open and siphoning water into the starboard lockers. Not something we had found in any of our previous trips. Michael tracked down the cause of the runaway diesel which turned out to be a dodgy fuel line which had been bent over and sealed, rather than properly terminated.

We had a BBQ for dinner and shared a good bottle of red that Miranda gave us as a farewell gift. Michael caught three tommy ruffs and had a big grin on his face!

Tomorrow the weather is looking good for a crossing to Kangaroo Island, so we are going to get up at the crack of dawn and get going. Next post will be from American River. Although, as John Cleese said..... ;o)

x

Here's a few snaps of the last week. No photos of the rough conditions though - the camera was tucked down in the cabin and there was NO WAY I was going below to get it!

Provisioning the boat, or as I recently learned "victualising" the boat...

Storing the precious cargo of alcohol!

Saturday before we left was open day at the RSAYS and the One and All tall ship came to visit. We had a great time exploring her.

 Around 7am on Thursday 10 November, leaving the Port River at Outer Harbour.

 

After the damage was done - diesel mixed with sea water in our lockers...

Yesterday Michael's parents, Opa and our nephew Reiker came and spent the day with us at Wirrina.
Captain Reiker....

 Reiker's first fish!!!

Marina surroundings... Its quite a shame that they have plonked this enourmous breakwater in the middle of the previously pristine bay. Its as if a giant tipped a massive toy truck of gravel over the top of all the natural rock formations. Still, we were grateful for the safe harbour.